South West Coast Path
Port Isaac to Newquay.
3 days, 36.5 miles. Fantastic views and oodles of picnics.
How did we choose and plan our route?
The South West Coast Path website is excellent and has all the information.
Things we'd do differently?
Spend a penny?
All the public tiolets on the route need coins to pay. Make sure you have a couple of 20p and 50p pieces on you.
Always wear your own socks
I'd helped myself to some nice looking socks at home and hadn't realised, until the end of the first day, that they were at least one or two sizes too small for me.
Keep your nails trim
Such an important little thing, if you're doing a long walk. Cut your toe nails before you start. Once they get bruised it's very hard to forget about them.
Take poles
Thank goodness for my poles on some of the steeper bits with big bags and tired legs.
Weight
My pack actually felt quite heavy before I even put anything in it. I think I'll see what I can strip down for the next walk. But also, only take what you need. I had a few extra pieces that really added weight. I'd leave them at home another time. My legs were tired.
Day 1
Port Isaac to Padstow (12 miles)
The weather forecast for the weekend looked perfect, so a little last minute, we arranged a last minute trip to Cornwall.
We drove from my mum's in Sussex to Port Isaac, arriving quite late—too late, in fact, to find anywhere open for supper. We’d booked a lovely Airbnb for the night: room for two and a dog, with a balcony overlooking the estuary. To stretch our legs after the journey, we took a walk around the village. The light was perfect. It felt so relaxing to be by the sea.
Back at the Airbnb, we sorted out our packs for an early-ish start—well, early-ish enough to still enjoy breakfast on the balcony.
The next morning, the weather was glorious. After a fairly leisurely start, we packed up and walked back into town, around the bay, and up the other side—looking back at Port Isaac as we went.
Following the coastal path. We passed through tiny hamlets and big views from high cliffs. A lot of up and down on this stretch.
Occasionally we’d pass another walker, but mostly it felt like we had the landscape to ourselves.
We stopped for a picnic overlooking a little harbour. Probably a little too soon in the day. We still had a long way to go.
By mid-afternoon, we were nearly at the golf course. We had to walk through here to catch the ferry. This part of the walk was less interesting, feeling like a bit of a plod, and because of our long picnic breaks we really had to get a move on to catch the last ferry. Finally reaching the landing spot of the boat just in time. It was a lovely, relaxing ride across the estuary, dropping us right in the centre of Padstow. We found a bench and got some refreshment! As the sun dropped I felt quite chillly after all the sun. The PACMAT came in handy.
Day 2
Padstow to Porthcothan (13.5 miles)
We were dropped back in Padstow, (we had stayed just outside, finding it difficult to find any reasonably priced accommodation in Padstow itself). Stocking up on sandwiches and snacks we also got a take away and pastry from the Chough Bakery - it was just too tempting. One to eat at the waterside, watching the boats coming and going in the sunshine and one to take with us.
When we'd finished and packed the snacks into our bags we set off around the harbour and off out along the coast path the other side. The land was much flatter than the day before, thankfully, as my legs were very tired. Walking alongside miles and miles of sandy beaches. Basil popped down onto the sand for a blast up and down the beach, jumping the pools of seawater left behind by the tide.
Gradually the path went up. We were able to look down onto the odd motorboat anchored off a secret beach, floating on the turquoise water - really looking like a scene from the Med. Heading on up we could see a stone tower. It sits on top of Daymark, built as navigation aid for sailors entering the port. This seemed like a good place for a rest.
From here, in the distance, we could just make out Trevose Head with its lighthouse. We carried on walking up above the sea, occasionally with long drops down to beautiful sandy coves.
Walking down and across yet another glorious beach, Trevone Bay. I made a note of the shack offering coasteering and kayaking tours at the back of the beach, one day we'll come back to explore more. Walking on we stopped just before the lighthouse at Trevose Head, tired and hungry, very ready for a snack. There was a good view and and a spot for a PACMAT.
The path headed down after this point towards Boobys Bay. Yet another spot I'd like to return. A windswept beach, stretching for miles. The National Trust 'Tom Parson's Hut' at the far end is available to rent. The grassy bank, looking back towards Booby's was another place for a sit down to admire the view.
Walking on from here, near St Merryn, the cliffs were quite spectacular. We looked back towards our picnic spot, marked by the lighthouse.
Eventually we got closer to Porthcothan, the end of our second day. Ready to put our feet up for the day. Instead of going stright back to where we were staying we got a lift to Padstow and had supper at the Caffe Rojano, which was delicious (and they allowed dogs).
Day 3
Portchothan to Newquay (11 miles)
Starting the day at Porthcothan Bay Stores. It was hot, so we grabbed some seats in the shade, got coffee and pastries and started gearing up for the walk. There was a nice hum of people in and out of the store. All ages, and lots of dogs. We headed off along the coast path, initially starting on the beach, then walking up and heading up.
More fabulous views and a couple of cliff drops that made me want to pop Basil on the lead. We could spot nesting birds on the cliffs.
We slowly got closer to the fabulous Bedruthan Steps. (A series of five large rock stacks. Apparently a giant used them as stepping stones). Walking along the cliff top we reached the national Trust tea room and shop. We didn't stop here, it was a little busy, but carried onto Trenance.
Yet another fantastic beach. It seemed like a good picnic and swim spot. Putting our PACMAT wash & dry towels to use.
We put our shoes and socks back on, folded up the PACMATs and got on our way. More stunning cliff views and wild flowers. And then we reached Watergate Bay. A vast stretch of sand. The path took us all the way along the back of the beach, finally arriving at the Watergate Bay bar where we stopped for some lovely cold orange juice. Quite tired by this point, we put our rucksacks back on and walked the final stretch to Newquay. Getting closer into town it was busy and hot, the views had gone and it felt like quite a hard plod. We crawled into the Boardmaster's beach bar which was quite busy with people getting ready to watch the sun set. I was very thankful for a sit down and a large, cold pint.
Day 4
A revisit of our favourites (5 miles)
After a walk around the headland in Newquay to Pentire Headland, looking over towards Crantock Beach we made our way back to the van.
We decided to revisit one of the most beautiful places we'd had to rush past on the first day, near The Rumps. A secret cove with just us and a fisherman. The tide was going out, revealing more of the beach. We placed our PACMAT on the wet sand and relaxed for a picnic before walking back to the van and doing the long drive back to London.
Just some of the places we walked through:
Port Isaac
A charming fishing village known for its narrow streets and historic cottages. Also famous as the filming location for the TV series Doc Martin.
Port Gaverne
Port Gaverne, a small cove and hamlet. Once a busy port for slate and pilchard fishing, now a tranquil setting with stone and slate buildings.
Port Quin
A secluded cove and hamlet. The area is known for its natural beauty and is part of the Cornwall Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Polzeath
A popular seaside village known for its sandy beach and surfing with a choice of cafes and shops.
Rock
Just across the estuary from Padstow, Rock is a village known for its beautiful views. It's a great spot to relax and enjoy the coastal scenery.
Daymer Bay
A small village near Rock, Daymer Bay is known for its sandy beach and calm waters, making it ideal for swimming and picnicking!
Padstow
A bustling town known for its picturesque harbour and culinary delights.
Mawgan Porth
A village with a beautiful beach and a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a day's walk.
Porth
Approaching Newquay, you'll pass through Porth, a small village known for its beach and proximity to the larger town of Newquay.
Newquay
Your journey concludes in Newquay, a vibrant town famous for its surf culture, sandy beaches, and lively atmosphere. It's a popular destination for both relaxation and adventure.
Next?
We will take up the path again sometime soon and head towards St Ives.
Products used on this trip:
Cornwall Family PACMAT®
Deckchair Family PACMAT®
Nature Trail Wash & Dry Towel
Signature Thermal PACMAT® Patch